Strings are the only part of the racket that actually touches the ball. Change them and the same frame can go from powerful to controlled, from harsh to comfortable, from "no spin" to "heavy topspin". Yet many players never change the factory strings, or restring with whatever the shop has on the shelf.
This guide covers the main string types, gauges and tensions, and how to choose a setup that fits your game and protects your arm.
The main string types
Synthetic gut (nylon)
The basic, inexpensive string fitted to many pre-strung rackets. It plays reasonably well, offers medium comfort and power, and is a sensible choice for beginners and occasional players. It loses tension fairly quickly and does not generate much extra spin.
Multifilament
Made of hundreds of thin fibres bundled together, multifilaments imitate the feel of natural gut. They are soft, powerful and comfortable, which makes them a favourite for players with arm problems and for those who want easy depth. They can fray and break sooner for heavy topspin hitters.
Polyester ("poly")
The string of choice on the professional tours. Polyester is stiff and durable; the strings move and snap back, which helps produce heavy spin, and it gives a controlled, low-powered response that lets big hitters swing hard. The downsides: it is harsh on the arm, loses tension quickly and goes "dead" long before it breaks. Poly suits strong players with long, fast swings — not beginners.
Natural gut
Made from cow intestine, natural gut is the most elastic and comfortable string, with excellent feel and the best tension maintenance. It is also the most expensive and is sensitive to humidity. Many advanced players use it in a hybrid.
Hybrid setups
A hybrid uses one string in the mains (vertical) and another in the crosses (horizontal). The most common combination is polyester mains for spin and durability with a multifilament or natural gut cross for comfort and feel. Hybrids are a good compromise for players moving towards polyester.
Which string type suits you?
| Player | Suggested string | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Beginner, occasional player | Synthetic gut | Cheap, decent comfort, easy power |
| Arm or elbow issues | Multifilament or natural gut | Softest response, least shock |
| Improving club player | Multifilament, or hybrid poly/multi | Comfort with a step towards control and spin |
| Advanced topspin hitter | Polyester (or poly/gut hybrid) | Spin, control and durability for big swings |
| String breaker | Thicker polyester or hybrid | Lasts longer under heavy use |
Gauge: thin or thick?
Gauge is string thickness. Common gauges run from about 1.20 mm to 1.35 mm.
- Thinner strings (1.20–1.25 mm) bite the ball more, giving extra spin and feel, plus a little more power. They break sooner.
- Thicker strings (1.30–1.35 mm) last longer and feel slightly firmer and more controlled.
If you break strings often, go thicker before you go stiffer.
Tension: the most misunderstood setting
Tension is how tightly the strings are pulled when the racket is strung, in kilograms or pounds. Every racket has a recommended range printed on the frame, typically something like 21–27 kg (46–60 lb).
- Lower tension means more trampoline effect: more power, more comfort, a larger effective sweet spot — but less control.
- Higher tension means a firmer string bed: more control and a more direct feel, but less power and more shock to the arm.
The counter-intuitive part: if your balls are flying long, string tighter; if you lack depth, string looser. Many players assume tighter strings mean more power — it is the opposite.
Polyester is usually strung 1–2 kg lower than a multifilament in the same racket, because it is stiffer and loses its "life" quickly. Start in the middle of the frame's range, play a few sessions, and adjust by 1 kg at a time.
How often should you restring?
Strings lose tension from the moment they are installed, even if they never break. The classic rule: restring as many times per year as you play per week. Play three times a week? Restring about three times a year — more if you use polyester.
Signs you need fresh strings:
- The ball flies more than usual or you have lost control.
- Strings move out of place and stay there (common with multifilaments).
- Polyester feels stiff, "boardy" and lifeless.
- Your arm aches after play when it did not before.
- Visible fraying or notching on the main strings.
Building your setup step by step
- Pick the string type from the table above, based on your level and your arm.
- Pick a gauge: 1.25–1.30 mm is the safe middle.
- Pick the tension: middle of the frame's range; subtract 1–2 kg for polyester.
- Play three or four sessions, then adjust one variable at a time.
- Write it down. String name, gauge, tension and date — so you can reproduce a setup you like.
Dampeners, overgrips and other small things
A vibration dampener (the small rubber piece between the bottom strings) changes the sound and the buzzing sensation, but it does not meaningfully reduce shock to the arm — for comfort, strings and tension matter far more. Overgrips do not change the strings, but they affect grip size and comfort; see our grip size guide.
Frequently asked questions
What tension should I string my racket at?
Start in the middle of the range printed on your racket's frame — often around 23–25 kg (50–55 lb) for multifilament and 1–2 kg lower for polyester. Go up for more control, down for more power and comfort.
How often should I restring?
A common rule is to restring as many times per year as you play per week. Polyester loses tension and liveliness quickly, so regular poly users often restring every 15–25 hours of play even if the string has not broken.
Why does my polyester string feel dead?
Polyester loses elasticity and tension faster than other strings. After a few weeks of regular play it can feel stiff and lifeless even without visible wear. That is the signal to restring — playing on dead poly is also harder on the arm.
Is natural gut worth the price?
For players who value comfort and feel, often yes: natural gut keeps its tension well and is the most arm-friendly string. It is expensive and sensitive to moisture, so many players use it only in the cross strings or in a hybrid.