Walk into any sports shop and you will see rackets from the price of a pizza to the price of a weekend away. For a beginner, the expensive end is rarely necessary — but the very cheapest frames can make learning harder. The good news: the sweet spot for a first racket is affordable, typically well under €100, as long as you know which specifications to look for.
This guide explains what a beginner actually needs, what to avoid, and which model families have a long track record as first rackets. We deliberately do not quote prices: they change with every season and every shop, and the same frame is often discounted when a new paint job arrives.
What a beginner really needs from a racket
When you start, your contact point moves around the string bed and your swing is still short. The racket should compensate for that rather than punish it. In practice that means:
- A larger head (100–105 in²). A bigger string bed means a bigger sweet spot, more forgiveness on off-centre hits and easier depth.
- Moderate weight (260–285 g unstrung). Light enough to swing for an hour without fatigue, heavy enough not to twist on every off-centre ball.
- Even or slightly head-heavy balance. It adds a little "free" power to short swings.
- An open 16×19 string pattern. Easier spin and a livelier response.
- The right grip size. Often overlooked, and the most common cause of discomfort. See our grip size guide.
If you want to understand each of these numbers in depth, our complete racket buying guide explains head size, weight, balance, stiffness and string patterns one by one.
Aluminium vs graphite: the one upgrade worth paying for
The cheapest rackets are made of aluminium or a basic alloy. They are tough and fine for kids, the beach or a once-a-year game. Their weak points are a dull, vibrating feel and a lack of stability, which can make the ball fly unpredictably.
A step up, you find graphite composite frames — graphite mixed with other materials — and then full graphite. For an adult who wants to play regularly, this is the upgrade that matters most: the racket is lighter for the same stability, more consistent from shot to shot and kinder to the arm. Most of the model families below are composite or graphite frames that remain in the budget bracket.
Traps to avoid with cheap rackets
- Ultra-light "power" frames under 250 g for adults. They feel great in the shop but are unstable and can be harsh on the arm because the frame cannot absorb the impact.
- Oversized heads beyond about 110 in² for younger, athletic players. They are made for slower swings; a fast learner will soon find them hard to control.
- The wrong grip size, especially on rackets sold in a single size. Check the grip number (0–5 in Europe, 4 0/8–4 5/8 in the US) on the butt cap.
- Very old shop stock with strings that have been on the shelf for years. Strings lose elasticity over time even unused; budget a restring if the racket has clearly been in stock a long while.
- Junior rackets for adults (or the reverse). Junior frames are shorter than 27 inches. Children need the right length for their height — see our junior racket size guide.
Tip: last season's colourway of a good mid-range racket is often the best budget buy of all. Brands refresh cosmetics regularly while the frame underneath barely changes.
Model families worth looking at
Model names and versions change frequently, so treat the following as families to search for rather than exact products. All have been long-running, beginner-friendly lines from the major brands. Check the current specs against the checklist above before buying.
Head Ti S6
A classic that has stayed in the catalogue for decades: a very light, head-heavy, oversized frame with a long handle. It suits adult beginners with short swings and older or returning players looking for easy power. Not ideal for young, fast-swinging learners who will outgrow it quickly.
Typical profile: oversize head (~115 in²), very light, head-heavy.
Babolat Boost and Evoke ranges
Babolat's entry lines borrow the shape of its popular performance rackets in an affordable composite build. They come pre-strung, usually in 100–105 in² heads and beginner-friendly weights, and offer an easy, lively feel.
Typical profile: 100–105 in², around 260–275 g, pre-strung.
Wilson Ultra Power and entry "power" models
Wilson's budget power rackets aim at the same player: big sweet spot, light weight, pre-strung. A sensible choice for recreational adults who want to rally comfortably from day one.
Typical profile: 100–112 in², light, slightly head-heavy.
Head MX and entry Graphene lines
Head's entry composite lines combine moderate weights with forgiving heads. Some versions are slightly heavier, which makes them a good bridge for teenagers and athletic adults who will improve quickly.
Typical profile: 100–105 in², 260–285 g.
Light versions of mid-range rackets
Many popular performance frames — the Babolat Pure Drive, Wilson Clash or Head Speed families, for example — exist in "Lite", "L" or "Team" versions around 255–285 g. They often cost a little more than pure entry models, but you will not outgrow them in six months. If you already play a few times a week, this is often the smartest first buy.
When you are ready to move up, our best rackets by level guide shows what improving and advanced players typically use.
Don't forget the strings
Budget rackets are strung with basic synthetic gut, often at a middling tension. That is fine for your first months. Once you play weekly, a fresh string job — a comfortable multifilament or quality synthetic gut in the middle of the recommended tension range — is one of the cheapest ways to make a budget racket feel better. Avoid stiff polyester strings at this stage: they need fast swings and are harder on the arm. Our tennis strings guide explains the options.
Beyond the racket: a minimal starter kit
- Tennis shoes rather than running shoes. Running shoes are built for forward motion; tennis involves constant lateral movement, and the wrong sole can cause rolled ankles. See tennis shoes by surface.
- A can of balls suited to your court — or pressureless balls if you play rarely. See our tennis balls guide.
- A couple of overgrips. Cheap, quick to fit, and they keep the handle tacky and the grip size right.
Then the most valuable investment of all: a few lessons. A coach will correct your grip and swing before habits set in — something no racket can do for you.
Frequently asked questions
Is an aluminium racket OK for a beginner?
For a child, a very occasional player or a holiday racket, yes. For an adult who plans to play every week, a graphite or graphite-composite frame is worth the small extra cost: it is lighter, more stable and transmits less vibration to the arm.
Should a beginner buy a pre-strung racket?
Yes — most budget rackets come pre-strung and that is perfectly fine to start. Factory strings are basic, so after a few months of regular play a fresh string job at a sensible tension will make the racket feel noticeably better.
What weight is best for a beginner?
Most adult beginners do well with 260–285 g unstrung. Lighter frames are easy to swing but feel unstable against hard-hit balls; heavier frames are more stable but tire the arm before technique is in place.
Can I learn with a professional player's racket?
You can, but it rarely helps. Tour models usually have smaller heads and more weight, which demand clean contact and fast swings. A forgiving 100–105 in² frame will let you rally sooner and enjoy the learning phase.